Behind the scenes of every skin-care ad, there's an expert who's fine-tuning the model's every pore. Here, tricks from the dermatologists, facialists, and makeup artists that keep them glowing from "Action!" to the last face splash.
Three little words in the English language make skin-care advertisers weak in the knees: "natural," "fresh," and "clean." A model who radiates those qualities is worth her weight in soapsuds. That's why a team of experts is hired to moisturize, buff, and highlight her face to perfection before and during the shoot.
Unlike other beauty advertisement photographs, there's nowhere to hide in a skin-care ad—no elongated lashes, richly pigmented lipsticks, or cool, geometric haircuts. "Skin-care ads call for fresh, minimal makeup," says Collier Strong, a makeup artist for L'Oréal Paris who has worked on skin-care shoots for their Advanced Revitalift products featuring Andie MacDowell and Age Perfect Pro-Calcium with Diane Keaton.
Skin-care shoots also present a number of unusual obstacles for makeup artists. Not only are the artists faced with the usual challenge of creating gorgeous makeup that won't melt under hot lights, they also have to ensure their work can withstand a good drenching. "To give the ads a spa-like feeling, these shoots often involve a lot of splashing water and wet hair," says Kristofer Buckle, a makeup artist who has worked on ads for Dior Capture XP, in which Sharon Stone is shot in extreme close-up. "Sometimes they even want dewdrops on the skin."
The makeup artists, dermatologists, and facialists who specialize in these kinds of shoots have particular tricks up their sleeves for presenting the skin at its absolute best. And their biggest secret is that each trick is just as effective (and surprisingly easy) in real life.
FIGHTING WRINKLES
Book the right kind of facial. Skin-care models rely on their aestheticians before the camera looms. Sonya Dakar, a Beverly Hills-based aesthetician who tends to the faces of celebrities who have hefty skin-care contracts, says that six weeks before the shoot, she starts performing a series of weekly infrared light treatments. These stimulate collagen production, decreasing the look of fine lines and wrinkles for the next month. Dakar prefers them to lasers and chemical peels because they don't use any heat, so her clients don't have to worry about burning or irritation. "This treatment really plumps up the skin by boosting the collagen," says Dakar.
Control your climate. Patricia Wexler, a New York City dermatologist, suggests that her model clients put a humidifier in their hotel or bedrooms. "It puts moisture back into the atmosphere, preventing the skin from drying out," she says. "When the skin is dehydrated, lines become more visible and the color looks sallow."
Get a rubdown. The morning that Sharon Stone shoots a Dior skin-care ad Buckle massages her face as he moisturizes it. "Massage brings color to the skin, and helps relax the muscles, so ten minutes later, the face looks softer and creases disappear."
Smooth the lips. No matter whether a model is 14 or 40, her lips naturally have fine lines, which are exaggerated if her skin is dehydrated from cold weather or a long flight. In this case, makeup artists have to do what the post-production crew can't. "Lips look fake when they're retouched, and even the lips have to look good in skin-care ads because the entire face needs to be youthful and supple," says Mathew Nigara, who has worked on ads for Nars skin care. His solution is to rub them with Smashbox Emulsion Lip Exfoliant to get rid of any flakes, and gently wipe the granules away with a washcloth soaked with baby oil (which also moisturizes the lips). He then layers on a "generous amount" of Laura Mercier Skincare Lip Silk. "This combination creates a smooth surface, so lip color goes on evenly," says Nigara. This also increases the blood flow to the lips, making them look young and rosy, he says.
Use a primer. Long hours under hot lights can cause makeup to settle into a model's fine lines. To prevent this, the pros at Elizabeth Arden have discovered an alternative use for their Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules skin-care treatment: They open two and use them as a primer. The formula fills in any fine lines, creating a silky surface for foundation. With two capsules, makeup artists can cover the neck and chest, which often also need to be primed for makeup.
Hide lines with light. Just as you learned in art class: Shadows recede, light comes forward—which is why makeup artist Susan Giordano, who has worked on skin-care ads for Olay and Avon, pours a drop of liquid luminizer in her foundation. "Anything that reflects light makes the skin look more youthful," she says. "This trick works as well off-camera as it does on." Layer on the liquid. Judicious use of a balmy, thick moisturizer, a brightening serum, or a petroleum-based product creates the look of smooth, line-free skin. "They give skin this amazing, high-gloss shine," says Nigara. He applies the cream on the bridge of the nose, eyelids, and cheekbones.
BEATING BREAKOUTS
Avoid last-minute facials. While it may be tempting to have an aesthetician purge every last pore the day before a shoot, a smart model knows that's a silly idea. Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann, who stars in Lancome UV Expert ads, books her microdermabrasion treatments with Christine Chin in New York City weeks in advance to avoid any redness. "All of the travel and makeup really takes a toll on my skin," says the model. "The deep cleansing and exfoliation helps me start from zero again."
Give it time. Although she eventually appeared in an infomercial for Proactiv Solution, Alicia Keys used the anti-acne system for over a month and saw minimal results. "She was calling us because her skin still had problems," says Kathy Fields, Proactiv Solution cofounder and assistant clinical professor at the University of California, San Francisco. The doctor encouraged Keys to "stick with it," and within two months, "her blemishes diminished." (Proactiv urges users to see a dermatologist if the program doesn't work for them after 60 days.)
Try a budge-proof concealer. The less time a makeup artist has to spend touching up a honking zit, the happier everyone is. On the face, Nigara prefers Laura Mercier Secret Concealer, and on the body, he likes using Dermablend, because it doesn't melt under hot lights. Also, its long-lasting formula won't slip around as easily as creamier versions, allowing it to withstand the abuse of constant touching and the (often) obligatory splash scene. His application technique is odd, but it works. He first taps the tiniest bit of Decleor Aromessence Baume Essentiel on the pimple and then sponges skin-matching concealer on top of the balm. "It keeps the concealer from looking heavy and works as a water-resistant glue," he says. "This combination of products is hard-core, but it achieves a perfect look."
Defuse a breakout. Even if a huge zit rears its head 24 hours before a shoot, a model doesn't have to panic. "A mild cortisone injection can bring down a blemish," says Fields. If you can't get to a dermatologist, Heidi A. Waldorf, director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, suggests applying a topical cream with 2 percent benzoyl peroxide.
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